The 2014 Montrachet Grand Cru is without doubt one of the wines of the vintage, and a real classic in the making. Aromas of tangerine oil, confit citrus, pear, toasted nuts and subtle spice introduce a generous, powerful wine with breathtaking balance and precision. There’s so much depth and incipient complexity wrapped up in its intricate structure; it's suppler than the Bâtard but no less tight knit. For all the fuss that is made of Montrachet, here is one wine that really lives up to the reputation of the vineyard and the domaine, which I’d argue is its greatest exponent. If this can survive for 20 years in the cellar, then it will be perfection itself.