Jamesse discovered later, together with Gérard Liger-Belair, a physicist at the University of Reims, that ‘the spherical shape of the glass, which also encourages vertical movement, respects the role of the mousse’.

Each bubble carries aroma to the surface. In his glasses this is a ‘progressive extension along the curve of the glass which favours first a gradual then a stretched ascent, allowing each bubble to burst at the widest point to free its flavours and express aromatic subtlety’.

The greater surface allows more bubbles to burst simultaneously while their aromas are captured within the tapering top. ‘We introduced the glass in the restaurant in 2008,’ Jamesse recounts. ‘Initially diners were a little shocked, but once they tasted from it they realised the difference.’

The glasses are popular: ‘We have used them for the past three years at Ruinart,’ says chef de cave Frédéric Panaïotis. At Roederer, they have even replaced the house’s owndevised tulip-glasses for all tasting, blending and entertaining. Concurrently, others had similar ideas. Piper-Heidsieck, Moët & Chandon and Krug, for instance, collaborated with Austrian glass manufacturer Riedel to create bespoke glasses tailored to specific wines. Krug’s Joseph glass, named after the house’s founder, was ‘created to enhance every aspect of the sensorial Krug experience’, according to cellarmaster Eric Lebel.

Anne Krebiehl January 5, 2016